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      How Lovecraft Country Got ’50s Beauty So Right

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      Courtesy of HBO; Illustration by Clara Hendler Lovecraft Country , the HBO horror-adventure show that’s getting us through to Halloween , isn’t easily definable. It’s one part period piece, one part race horror story, and one part science-fiction genre flick. With so much going on, it’d be understandable for hair and makeup to fall by the wayside. But with the help of a small glam team, showrunner Misha Green created an aesthetic to fit each of the show’s personalities.

      "When we got the scripts for Lovecraft , we got all 10 scripts at once," says Sandra Linn Koepper, the show’s makeup department head. "We saw all the characters and everything that was going to happen to them. For certain characters, we knew they were going to evolve, so we told that story through makeup."

      Koepper and Brian Badie , the hair department head, did their homework to situate the audience squarely in 1955, which is when the majority of the show’s timeline takes place. "I always research," says Badie. "I look at period films, I look at period game shows, I look at the Decades channel."

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      "I didn’t want it to look like it’s 1955. I wanted it to feel like it," Koepper tells Allure . Read on for how she and Badie worked together to create a mesmerizing history lesson on ’50s hairstyles, makeup shades, and fashion — with one notable trip to the future that we’ll get to below.

      Letitia (Jurnee Smollett)

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      Lovecraft takes place in an alternate universe that contains angry ghosts and cop-eating monsters, but the real magic is how Letitia (played by Jurnee Smollett) always manages to show up in picture-perfect ’50s glam. Badie and Koepper took inspiration from period icons like Dorothy Dandridge and advertisements from the era (like this Charles of the Ritz nail ad ), which helped seal Leti’s connection with the color red.

      Together, they created the look for a character who, when she’s not solving a supernatural mystery, seems like she’d love to sit down and talk hair and makeup. Much has been made of Leti’s red lipstick, which looks freshly applied at all times when Smollett is on screen. Lucky for us, Koepper shared the shade: Stila’s All Day Liquid Lipstick in Fiery . "I had a palette of 12 colors that we used for every look in 1955," says Koepper. "There wasn’t a lot of choices back then, so we stayed in the red, coral, and pink family."

      But this is a horror set, and it can’t all be about lipstick. Koepper’s makeup concepts always "started with the beauty part and then melted down into the monster part." A special-effects team did the prosthetics work, Koepper had to create bruises, match makeup to blood spatter, and create the look of Leti soaked in sweat. To view this video please enable JavaScript, and consider upgrading to a web browser that supports HTML5 video WATCH Selena Gomez’s Glowing Makeup Routine in 10 Minutes Share Tweet Email More… EMBED URL

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      How Lovecraft Country Got '50s Beauty So RightHow Lovecraft Country Got '50s Beauty So RightHow Lovecraft Country Got '50s Beauty So RightHow Lovecraft Country Got '50s Beauty So Right

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